Ecologically Important Areas of
West Bengal Coast

Sunderbans

 

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Sunderbans:
     
 The Sunderbans comprise the outer portion of the Ganges/Brahmaputra delta, a vast region of tidal channels and islands covering about one million hectares and including one of the largest contiguous blocks of mangrove forest in the world. Geographically the delta is situated between 21º32' - 22º 20' N latitude and 88º 05' - 89 º 05' E longitudes; form the Hooghly-Matlah estuary east to the Bangladesh border, 100 km southeast of Calcutta. Almost 60% of this extensive area lies in Bangladesh. The remainder, including some 2000- 3000 sq.km of mangrove forest, is in Indian Territory. The Indian portion includes the deltaic region of the Hooghly-Matlah estuarine system, and the area bordering the Hooghly, Muriganga, Saptamukhi, Thakuran, Goshaba, Vidya, Matlah, and Hasinbhanga estuaries. In the western part of this section, large areas have been bunded for human settlement and cultivation, and very little mangrove forest now remains. The Indian Sunderban lies at the western edge of the ancient delta of the Ganges and suffer from an extreme scarcity of freshwater. Morphogenetic and tectonic uplift of this western margin has shifted the course of the Ganges eastwards, and the inflow of fresh water is now almost exclusively confined to the monsoon period between May and November. As a consequence, the Bengali Sunderban do not receive the volume of fertile alluvium brought by desalinating monsoon floods as they did in the past, and this is reflected in the pronounced changes in the floristic composition of the forest which have taken place over the past 600 years. Partly to remedy this situation but mainly to alleviate rapid siltation in the Port of Calcutta, the Indian government commissioned the building of the Farakka Barrage across the Ganges in 1971 to bring fresh water southwards into the region.
      The Sunderbans lie at the apex of this funnel-shaped Bay of Bengal and receive the full force of between four and eight intense cyclonic storms per year between August and November. Storm surges with waves of five to eight meters in height present a considerable marine invasion, creating tidal amplitudes far in excess of the 4.16 m average for spring tides. Under normal conditions, the tidal amplitude in the Hooghly Estuary ranges from 1.6 m to 4.3 m and the tidal influence extend's almost 290 km inland. Between 40% and 60% of Sunderban soil is composed of silt; the amount of coarse sand does not exceed 2%, and the amount of organic matter remains constant at between 1% and 1.5%. The pH ranges from 5.5 to 8. Salinities range from 3.6 ppt to 23.5 ppt; at the beginning of the dry season the salinity is high, but by the end of the dry season it is excessive as to be inimical to the development or regeneration of all but the most halophilous plant species. The Sundarbans delta has a variety of ecologically important features such as mangroves, mud flat, sand bar etc. The area of important wetland classes in Sunderbans has been described in Table 1.

Sunderbans: A View


Sunderban Mangroves
Mangroves

Climatic conditions:   
       Tropical monsoon climate with an annual rainfall of 1500 - 2500 mm. January is the coolest month with a mean temperature of 20º C and minimum temperature of 10º C. There is a pronounced dry season from Jan to April / May.


Table 1.  Wetland classes and its areal extent of Sunderbans     

Sl No
Wetland classes
Area in km²
1
Dens Mangrove
1768.85
2
Space Mangrove
127.84
3
Mud Flat
78.74
4
Salt Marsh
2.94
5
Aquaculture Ponds
19.91
6
Salt pan
0.02
7
Habitation with Vegetation
107.97


Fig: Ecologically Important Area in West Bengal : Sunderbans




Sunderbans: Ecologically Important area in West Bengal


Flora:
     
 The mangrove forests of the Indian Sunderban are now almost confined to a number of islands to the east of the Matlah River.

Five principal formations have been distinguished in the Sunderban:
(a) mangrove scrub or back-mangals
(b) saltwater mangrove forest
(c) a phoenix paludosa belt
(d) moderately saline, mixed forest dominated by heritiera fomes
(e) brackishwater, mixed forest dominated by Heritiera forest.
    However, only the first three of these formations are widespread in the Indian portion of the Sunderban. The back-mangals are bushy, discontinuous thickets of halophytes, often situated at the equinoctial high-tidal level. Species of Suaeda, Sesuvium, and Heliotropium are common.The back-mangals form the inland edge of the mangrove forests and were once widespread in the northern part of the delta. However, land reclamation has been very acute in this zone and, as a result; back-mangals are now found only in small isolated patches. The saltwater mangrove forest is the most widespread formation in the Indian Sunderban. These forests cover a large number of islands and islets, 3-5 m above sea level.The plant cover is very dense, averaging 12 trees (10-18 m in height), 440 shrubs (4-8 m high), and 2200 understorey shrubs (less then 4 m high) per hectare. The floral composition varies considerably from one island to another. Excoecaria agallocha or Sonneratia apetala may be the dominant species,ofter in pure stands or interspersed with woody thickets of Ceriops decandra and Aegiceras corniculatum. Other common species include Avicennia spp., Cruguier gymnorhiza, Xylocarpus granatum, X. moluccensis, and Rhizophora mucronata. The palm Phoenix paludosa occurs throughout the delta but always between the water's edge and the mangrove proper. It may extend up to 60 km inland, along channels having a heavy accumulation of salts during the dry season.The two other mangrove formations-moderately saline, mixed forest and brackishwater mixed forest- are now almost confined to the Bangladeshi portion of the Sunderban where salinities are low.. Some 5000 years ago, the arborescent vegetation of the Calcutta region was dominated by Heritiera fomes, which flourished on recent alluvial deposits with relatively low salinity. However, since the Gangetic floods no longer flush through the western Sunderban, it has been largely replaced by species of Rhizophoraceae. The grass Porteresia coarctata is very abundant in the northern part of the delta, where it fixes the recent alluvial deposits. . The palm Nypa fructicans is now almost extinct in the West Bengal; the few remaining small stands occur along creeks with a good supply of fresh water.

Fauna:
      
 The Sunderban contain some 300 tigers (Panthera tigris), the largest single population of the species. The spotted deer (Axis axis), wild bear (Sus scrofa), andrhesus macaque (Macaca mulatta) are particularly common. Marine mammals include the cetaceans Sousa plumbea, Delphinus delphis, Orxaella brevirostris and Neophocaena phocanoides. The Ganges river dolphin (Platanista gangeitca) lives all along the estuaries. The mangrove forests support a rich and relatively undisturbed avifauna. There are six species of kingfisher Alcedinidae, including Pelargopisis amauroptera. Pelecanus philippensis reportedly breeds and some 5000 Anastomus oscitans inhabit the kulik forest. Small numbers of Leptoptilos javanicus are regularly seen and presumably breed. The coastal mudflats and estuaries are of great importance as staging and wintering areas for migratory shorebirds, gulls, and the endangered river terrapin (Batagur baska) may in habit the area. The marine turtle Lepidochelys olivacea and Erenmochelys imbricate breed along the seaward edge of the forest and the endangered river terrapin (Batagur baska) may inhabit the area.There is a small, but growing, population of the estuarine crocodile (Crocodylus porosus),supplemented by captive-reared individuals. Snakes incude the python (Python molurus), some more then five meters in length. The Bengal monitor (Varanus bengalensis) is also found.

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